Imagine a collection of over 1,200 fashion pieces digitalised in 3D and available
to view online: this is what ESMOD is currently doing with its collection of
precious archive materials. Welcome to the real history of fashion, from 1750 to
the present day.
The famous outfit worn by Uma Thurman in Bel Ami. Day bodice, sweeping skirt and evening corset made from 19 th century fabrics for the 2012 film.
Any institution that reaches its 180 th anniversary (in 2021, in this case) has to have a
substantial history behind it and an archive to match. But in the field of training and
education, and fashion in particular, where the aim is to always be looking to the
future, it’s not always as simple as that. “I’d already carried out an initial inventory of
the school’s heritage archives in 2011, to coincide with the school’s
170 th anniversary”, explains Director of Heritage and ESMOD Editions Claire
Wargnier. From patents, cutting methods, mannequin busts and tape measures to
photos, VHS tapes and DVDs, not to mention tags, patterns, books, handwritten
course books (dating from the days of the World War II paper shortages), etc., there
was certainly no shortage of documents. “Over the next 10 years, I carried out further
research with the help of the founder’s family”, she continues, “but it wasn’t until
2018, when it came to illustrating the history of the school to mark its 180 th
anniversary and to share with the students our expertise regarding historical ready-
to-wear and haute couture models, that I started collecting the garments themselves”.
Complete French-style Amazon outfit from 1885 in the ESMOD collection.
This heritage would soon consist of over 90 complete outfits and looks dating
from 1750 to 1970 and beyond. The collection was initially established with old
pieces rented out for theatre and cinema. A collaboration with passionate collector
Mireille Tembouret on the publication of 4 books on the Grammaire du vêtement
occidental (‘Grammar of Western Clothing’, ESMOD Editions), has seen the author
donate some of the clothes illustrated in her books to ESMOD Heritage. This initial
step will soon be complemented by a generous donation from the UFAC (French
Union of Costume Arts). A legacy of some 400 pieces among which Claire finds
pieces by former students who have become stylists and designers, including Thierry
Mugler, Franck Sorbier, Daniel Hechter and Jacqueline Coq. Since then, the school
has been collecting donations from individuals and buying models at auction, online
and from antique fairs.
This is where the idea of a conservatory that was both a research laboratory and a
source of inspiration for the clothing of today and tomorrow came from, a project that
embodies the ambition of one man, ESMOD President Mr. Nino, and indeed the pride
of the entire school.
Afternoon dress dating from around 1921-24. The online video will allow you to view it from every angle.
Among these treasures we find creations by the likes of Paquin, Lanvin, Nina Ricci
and Guy Laroche, among others. A unique museum piece in the form of an Amazon's
outfit is the collection’s crowning glory, symbolising the specialisation of the school’s
founder and amazonier to Empress Eugénie, Alexis Lavigne. Some of the pieces
have been reconstructed for cinema, though this makes them no less valuable. One
such piece is a ‘Danton’ dress worn by Claudia Cardinale in Robert Enrico’s La
Révolution Française (1989), along with a sumptuous detachable dress with a bustle
recreated in period fabrics and even boning for Uma Thurman in the 2012 film Bel
Ami. More amusing still is the multi-coloured kaftan dress from 1968 worn by Dalida.
These 1,200 classified and indexed pieces represent all of the different
specialisations in which ESMOD offers courses. These dresses, shirts, trousers and
accessories (hats, gloves, bags, shoes, etc.) embody such a wealth of expertise in
the fields of ladies’ and men’s ready-to-wear fashion and haute couture, as well as
children’s clothing, lingerie and knitwear. The school has also recently acquired a
number of wedding dresses from all periods in history. A real cabinet of curiosities,
then, and one that has already been the subject of various dedicated work sessions
for teachers and students alike. Guided tour-talks, whereby some of the
reconstructed garments can be tried on to help raise awareness of other forms of
wear and other textile experiences, can also be arranged.
But an archive is worthless unless it is permanently accessible to students, alumni,
researchers and as many other enthusiasts as possible, which is why, over the past
two years, these pieces have been digitised, filmed and captioned to create 360-
degree images of the garments in question. The resulting files will soon be available
online.
Since the last Metaverse Fashion Week that ran from 24 to 27 March 2023, specialist
firm Altr has already made available online an initial augmented reality experience
with the famous French-style Amazon outfit from the ESMOD collection (1880),
revealing the history of this garment in which the school’s founder Alexis Lavigne
specialised. Each piece – blouse, skirt, trousers and accessories – is individually
examined within the context of the period, and you can even scan a bar code using
your smartphone to make the outfit appear right there in the room with you. A unique
experience offering 3D-like access to the outfit so you can appreciate its contours
from every possible angle. Truly spectacular!
1950s gingham afternoon dress resembling Brigitte Bardot’s wedding dress at the time.